Transmission, Removal
Removing the transmission
Special tools:
998 5972 JACK 998 5972 Jack
999 5045 COMPRESSION HOOK 999 5045 Compression Hook
999 5185 HOOK 999 5185 Hook
999 5460 Lifting hook 999 5460 Lifting Hook
999 5462 Jimmy tool 999 5462 Jimmy Tool
999 5463 FIXTURE 999 5463 Fixture
999 5488 PLUGS 999 5488 Plugs
999 5562 PROTECTIVE SOCKET 999 5562 Protective Socket
999 5563 SUPPORT 999 5563 Support
999 5716 Reading off tool 999 5716 Reading Off Tool
999 5972 FIXTURE 999 5972 Fixture
Note! The illustrations in this section show left-hand drive versions. Right-hand drive and turbocharged versions are shown only where they differ.
Shift the gear selector lever to neutral
Removing engine compartment components
Remove:
- the battery
- the air cleaner (ACL) housing and the intake manifold
- the timer valve from the air cleaner (ACL) housing. (Cars with turbocharged engines only)
- the battery shelf
- the screws securing the bracket for the air cleaner (ACL) housing.
Turbocharged engines only: Remove engine compartment components
Remove:
- the hose between the pipe from the charge air cooler (CAC) and the outlet pipe from the turbocharger (TC). Tie the pipe to the radiator
- the brake vacuum hose from the nipple on the intake manifold and the clamp on the engine
- the hose between the throttle body (TB) intake pipe and the charge air cooler (CAC)
- slacken off the clamp for the intake pipe at the throttle body (TB) a few turns. Turn the pipe in towards the engine as far as possible. Secure it using a tie strap.
Removing the transmission cables
Remove:
- the gear selector cables from the bracket and levers
- the transmission lever: knock out the split pin
- the connector for the back-up (reversing) light switch.
Removing the clutch cable
Clamp the hose between the brake fluid reservoir and the clutch master cylinder. Use hose pliers.
Remove the clutch line from the adapter: Pull out the locking tongue which locks the quick-release connector to the adapter.
Remove the quick-release connector from the adapter.
Wipe up any brake fluid that leaks out.
Reinstall the locking tongue in the adapter.
Protect the ends of the clutch cable with a plastic bag.
Lift the pipe out of holder on the side of the transmission. Place it to one side.
Remove the ground lead from the transmission.
Remove the clamps for the engine cable harness.
Slacken off the nut for the rear engine pad / splash guard a few turns
Remove the five screws securing the starter motor to the transmission.
Remove the cable duct above the transmission.
Removing the screw for the torque rod and torque control arm at the engine
Disconnect the ground strip from the firewall.
Installing lifting tools
Install lifting beam 999 5716 Reading off tool 999 5716 Reading Off Tool. Install lifting hooks 999 5460 Lifting hook 999 5460 Lifting Hook and 999 5185 HOOK 999 5185 Hook.
Lift the engine to relieve the load on the engine pads.
Removing the front wheels and the ABS sensor
Remove:
- the front wheels
- the ABS sensor from the stub axle (left-hand side).
Caution! Do not separate the connector halves!
Remove the brackets for the brake pipes and ABS wiring (both sides). Unhook the brackets and let them hang loose.
Removing the drive shaft screw
Remove:
- the front plastic nut(s) for the fender liner on the left-hand side. Remove any torx screws
- the left drive shaft screw. Use a screwdriver as a counterhold.
Removing the front protective cover
Disconnecting the control arms from the stub axles
Cleaning around the ball joint
Blow clean around the ball joint with compressed air.
Generously spray the ball joint and the screw and nut retaining the ball joint with rust penetrator.
Removing the screw and nut for the ball joint
If the screw has rusted solid: Slacken off the nut a few turns. Knock the screw loose. Remove the screw and the nut.
Spray the ball joint with rust penetrator again.
Note! Do not insert a screwdriver or punch between the "ears" on the stub axle.
Preparations for removing the ball from the stub axle
Tap the ball joint off the stub axle. Use a socket as a spacer.
Note! The inner diameter of the socket must be larger than the outer diameter of the cover. This is to prevent damage to the cover.
Spray the ball joint with rust penetrator again.
Removing the ball joint
Move the ball joint up and down by hand (or a jimmy bar can be used) until the ball joint detaches from the stub axle.
Install protective socket 999 5562 PROTECTIVE SOCKET 999 5562 Protective Socket on the ball joint.
Use holder 999 5563 SUPPORT 999 5563 Support on the control arm when the ball joint is detached.
Disconnect and unhook the links from the anti-roll bar (both sides)
Removing the mounting screw for the cable conduit on the sub-frame
Unhook the pipe from the sub-frame.
Remove the carbon filter container with its hoses from the sub-frame (certain versions)
Cut off the tie strap for the hoses. Hang the container from the car body.
Slacken off the clamp for the exhaust pipe behind the three-way catalytic converter (TWC)
Removing the screwed joint
Remove:
- the screws for the oil pipe brackets
- the two screws for the torque rod mounting support on the transmission.
Drain the transmission oil
Caution! Only if the transmission or oil is to be replaced. Tighten the plug. Tighten to 35 Nm.
Removing the collision protection system over the steering gear (right-hand drive cars only)
Secured with two screws.
Removing the right drive shaft
Remove the bearing cap.
Pull out the inner section of the drive shaft. At the same time fold out the spring strut.
Caution! Take care not to damage the seal in the transmission.
Install sealing plug 999 5488 PLUGS 999 5488 Plugs.
Let the drive shaft rest on the sub-frame and oil pipes.
Caution! Later models have a rubber seal on the constant velocity joint. Do not damage the seal. It will be needed for installation.
Removing the screw for the front engine pad in the sub-frame
Slacken off the screw for the engine pad / steering gear approximately one turn.
Remove the 5 steering gear mounting nuts in the sub-frame.
Right-hand drive cars only:
Remove the nut (A) for the collision protection / sub-frame.
Removing the screws for the sub-frame
Position mobile jack 998 5972 JACK 998 5972 Jack in light contact under the left-hand side of the sub-frame as support.
Remove the screws securing the sub-frame support brackets on the left and right-hand sides.
Slacken off the two screws for the sub-frame mounting in the bodywork on the right-hand side by approximately 15 mm . Note! All-wheel drive (AWD) = maximum 5 turns .
Remove the screws on the left-hand side.
Preparatory lowering of the sub-frame (applies only to right-hand drive cars only)
Lower the sub-frame approximately 100 mm.
Ensure that the five screws for the steering gear and the screw for the collision protection release from the frame.
Remove the screws for the anti-roll bar bearing cap (left-hand side). Slacken off the screws on the right-hand side so that they are held by a short section of thread.
Secure the anti-roll bar to the steering gear as illustrated.
Lowering the sub-frame
Caution! Check that the steering gear screws release from the sub-frame. Ensure that the control arm is free of the drive shaft boot on the right-hand side.
Remove the mobile jack
Let the sub-frame hang on the screws on the right-hand side.
Right-hand drive cars:
Tape the end of the drive shaft to the oil pipes.
Remove the ground lead.
Mounting the steering gear on the left-hand side in the hole in the frame member flange
Use hook 999 5045 COMPRESSION HOOK 999 5045 Compression Hook. Alternatively, use a tie strap.
Remove the screw for the engine pad / steering gear. Remove the nut on top of the engine pad. Remove the engine pad.
Caution! Ensure that the steering gear hangs securely on the hook / tie strap so that the lower steering shaft does not slide out of the steering column.
Removing the rear engine mounting
Remove the cable clamps for the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) cable from the cover.
Remove:
- the cover at the rear engine mounting
- the rear mounting from the transmission.
Removing the left drive shaft
Turn and fold out the spring strut. Knock the end of the drive shaft with a rubber or copper mallet. Pull the end of the drive shaft out of the hub.
Remove the drive shaft from the transmission. Use lever 999 5462 Jimmy tool 999 5462 Jimmy Tool between the transmission and the inside of the drive shaft. Modified according to the Workshop Guide.
Caution! Pull at the constant velocity joint, not the shaft, when removing the shaft. This is to help prevent excessive load on the joint axial stop. Take care not to damage the drive shaft seal and boots.
Install sealing plug 999 5488 PLUGS 999 5488 Plugs in the transmission. Clean off any metal adhesive residue from the spline joint, hub / drive shaft.
Caution! Later models have a rubber seal on the constant velocity joint. Do not damage the seal. It will be needed for installation.
Lowering the engine and the transmission
Lower with lifting hook 999 5460 Lifting hook 999 5460 Lifting Hook until the distance between the lifting beam and the mounting for the upper torque rod is 365-370 mm .
Caution! If the engine is lowered too much, the exhaust pipe may press the steering gear down.
Caution! Ensure that no cables and hoses are pinched or stretched. Ensure that the engine dipstick is free from the fan.
Installing fixtures and the mobile jack
Install:
- fixture 999 5972 FIXTURE 999 5972 Fixture and fixture 999 5463 FIXTURE 999 5463 Fixture on mobile jack 998 5972 JACK 998 5972 Jack
- the fixture on the transmission using the screws for the torque rod mounting.
At the same time, align the bearing plate (marked 999 5463) on fixture, modified according to the Workshop Guide.
Raise the mobile jack into contact.
Removing the remaining 7 screws between the engine and transmission
Removing the transmission
Pull the transmission straight out from the engine.
Caution! Ensure that the transmission comes straight out from engine without stressing the clutch driven plate center.
Lower the mobile jack. Pull off the transmission.