FREE REPAIR MANUALS & LABOR GUIDES 1982-2013 Vehicles
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Front Cross-Member: Service and Repair





Replacing The Front Sub-Frame

Special Tools: 999 5716, 999 5460, 999 5045, 951 2050

Removal

Preparation







- Install lifting beam 999 5716. Install lifting hooks 999 5460
- Lift the engine to relieve the load on the engine pads.

Remove







- the front wheels.
- the splash guard under the engine.







- the air duct cover.







- the cable duct screw.

Remove







- the oil pipes from the steering gear from the snap fasteners on the sub-frame
- the hose for the EVAP canister along the sub-frame
- the fuel line for the engine block heater and the engine block heater (if applicable) on the left side of the sub-frame.

Remove







- the hose for the EVAP canister in the joint by pulling apart the hose. Pull it forwards under the anti-roll bar and remove it from the snap fastener on the sub-frame.

Remove







- the mounting for the exhaust pipe on the bracket
- the screws holding the exhaust pipe bracket. Disconnect the brake pipe from the snap fasteners on the bracket
- the bracket.







- Remove the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring from the mounting.







- Remove the anti-roll bar links from the anti-roll bar. Counterhold using a Torx wrench so that the ball joint boot is not damaged.







- Remove both the nuts retaining the lower torque rod
- Remove the screw and bend up the bushing with the holder towards the torque rod.







- Remove the front engine pad screw.







- Slacken off the right lower front section of the fender liner.
- Remove the plastic nuts on the fender liner.
- Remove the splash guard.
- Bend out the fender liner.







- Remove both the right hand engine mounting screws.







- Remove the four nuts and the screw holding the steering gear to the sub-frame.
- Remove the delivery line from the clips on the sub-frame.







- Remove the nuts from the ball joints. Counterhold with a Torx wrench so that the ball joint boot is not damaged.

Removing the sub-frame







- Remove and hang up the engine block heater (if applicable) on the left front mounting for the sub-frame
- Position a lifting table under the sub-frame.
- Remove the screws holding the sub-frame brackets to the bodywork on both sides
- Remove the four screws from the sub-frame
- Carefully lower the sub-frame.

NOTE: Ensure that the steering gear screws release from the sub-frame.







Hang the steering gear from a hook 999 5045 so that the lower steering shaft does not come apart.

Installation

Transferring components

Transfer







- the control arms. Use new screws and new nut. Tighten the front screws. Tighten to 65 Nm. Angle-tighten 90 degrees. Use bevel protractor 951 2050. Tighten the rear screw. Tighten to 105 Nm. Angle-tighten 90 degrees
- the anti-roll bar. Tighten to 60 Nm
- the right-hand engine mounting. Tighten the screws. Tighten to 65 Nm. Angle-tighten 60 degrees
- the mounting for the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring
- the engine pad.

Install new pipe/hose holders.

Installing the sub-frame
- Position the sub-frame on a lifting table
- Carefully lift the sub-frame
- Locate the control arms on the ball joints and the steering gear on its mountings
- Remove the hook (999 5045) that is holding the steering gear
- Lift the sub-frame up completely
- Reinstall the engine block heater (if applicable).







- Install the engine block heater (if applicable) on the left front mounting for the sub-frame
- Install the four screws in the sub-frame together with the sub-frame brackets. Use new screws. Lubricate the screws
- First tighten the screws on the left-hand side of the sub-frame. Tighten to 105 Nm. Angle-tighten to 120 degrees. Then tighten the right-hand side to the same values
- Finally tighten the screws for the brackets on both sides to 50 Nm.

Finishing

Install







- the right-hand engine mounting. Use new screws. Tighten to 35 Nm. Angle-tighten 90 degrees.







- the front engine pad. Tighten to 50 Nm.







- lower torque rod. Tighten the screw and nut. Tighten to 35 Nm. Angle-tighten 90 degrees.

The lower torque rod must be tightened last to avoid tension being introduced.

Tighten the front nuts. Tighten to 65 Nm. Angle-tighten 90 degrees. Use bevel protractor 951 2050.

NOTE: Use new screws and nuts.







- the fender liner and the splash guard with both the plastic nuts.







- the four nuts and the screw holding the steering gear. Use new nuts and a new screw. Tighten to 50 Nm.

Clip the cable in position.







- the wiring for the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) in its mounting.







- the mountings for the exhaust pipe on the bracket. Tighten to 10 Nm.
- the brake pipe on the exhaust pipe bracket
- the exhaust pipe bracket. Tighten the bracket screws. Tighten to 25 Nm.







- EVAP canister hose. Press the joint together.







- the oil pipe to the steering gear
- the hose for the EVAP canister
- any fuel line for engine block heater
- the engine block heater (if applicable) on the left front mounting for the sub-frame.







- new nuts on the ball joints. Tighten to 80 Nm. Counterhold with a Torx wrench so that the ball joint boot is not damaged.







- the anti-roll bar links. Use new nuts. Tighten to 50 Nm. Counterhold with a Torx wrench so that the boot is not damaged.







- the cable duct screw.







- the air duct cover.

Install







- the splash guard under the engine. Tighten to 20 Nm
- Lower the car.
- Install the wheels.
- Remove the lifting tools for the engine