Body - Doors are Hard to Close/Fit Poorly
NO: 83-35DATE: 02-09-2005
MODEL:
XC90 (03-)
M.YEAR:
MY03-
SUBJECT:
Door Fitting XC90 - Fault Tracing and Service
REFERENCE:
VADIS
DESCRIPTION:
Some customers might complain about doors being hard to close or fitting related problems with the door latches. This TNN describes fault tracing and service methods available.
FAULT TRACING AND SERVICE:
Several factors influence the door closing speed. Follow fault tracing steps below. They are ranked in logical order. Adjustment of the striker position will solve most of the problems. In certain cases, the overall door fitting needs to be adjusted. Very rarely, parts will need to be replaced.
How to judge door closing?
Park the car on a level floor with all windows, doors and tailgate closed.
Swing the door and let it close by its own speed rather than pushing it all the way until it's closed. Open and close the door several times until you find the speed needed to have the latch locked (normal closed position). This method will enable you to compare/judge accurately against other cars.
Step 1.1 Check striker alignment:
Check correct height of the striker by closing the door with the lock mechanism disengaged (pull and hold the door handle). Listen/feel carefully if the striker is touching the lock entrance. If you can hear/feel the striker touching the latch assembly, the striker is probably out of alignment (too high or too low). This will significantly slow down a closing door, making it hard to close. If the striker is too high, you might see or feel the door 'bouncing' when opened (door falling of the striker).
The flush alignment of the doors must be measured to determine if the striker is too far in or out.
Using a caliper, check the flush alignment of the front door towards the rear door, check the rear door towards the rear fender.
Hint:
Apply tape to avoid paint damage!
The front component must always overlap the rear component. Target is a flush between +0.04" to +0.05" (+1 to +1.3 mm).
If the flush is less, the striker is too far in and it will be much harder to fully lock the latch.
If the flush is more than +0.05" (+1.3 mm) ,there is a risk for wind noise and the gap will be unacceptable from quality perspectives.
Make 5 measurements and then average them to reduce measurement faults. Measure in a straight angle towards the door surface (horizontally and vertically).
For better accuracy, measure the flush alignment by use of a Depth Micrometer.
Service:
Adjust the height of the striker by moving it up or down. Adjust the flush of the door by moving the striker in or out.
Hint:
Slightly loosen the screws so that you can adjust in small steps by tapping the striker. Use the existing punch marks or use some tape to keep track of the movements (see picture).
Step 1.2 Check overall door fitting:
Check the 'load' on the door by closing it with the lock mechanism disengaged as described under step 1.1. There should be no resistance felt until the door is less than approximately 0.30" (8 mm) ajar.
If you do feel resistance, try to locate the source by listening for squeaky noises from squeezing the door seal or the sill seal (see also step 1.3).
In some cases the rear door might be too far inward at the upper side of the B-pillar.
Service:
Bring the door out by releasing the two bolts from the upper hinge and slightly tapping the door. Move the rear door out in small steps until no unusual resistance is felt during closing.
Hint:
Do not remove any of the shims!
Use the measurement of the flush alignment of the front door as a reference to keep track of the outward adjustment made on the rear door.
Once the rear door has been adjusted, bring out the front door to +0.04" to +0.05" (+1 to +1.3 mm) flush (see step 1.1).
After adjusting both doors, check the fitting of the window frames towards the body sides and between the front and rear door. The front component must always overlap the rear component (this can also be seen in the picture with the Depth Micrometer under Step 1.1).
Adjust by bending carefully if required (see picture). Avoid applying too much pressure on the door bow mouldings as they are easily dented!
Window frames must be correctly aligned to avoid wind noise. Pay attention for wind noise around the door frames during a test drive.
Finally, apply touch-up paint to the bolts and hinges if required to prevent corrosion.
Step 1.3 Check door seals:
Open the door and carefully check the complete seal around the edge of the door. Check for signs of abnormal squeezing and verify that the seal is in its normal position.
The seal should not be loose in any area (slightly pull to check). Check presence of air escape holes and make sure they are free.
Service:
Expose and clean air-escape holes if needed. Replace the seal if loose or damaged.
Be aware that replaced seals take some time to take shape. It is best to leave the original seals in place unless they absolutely must be replaced.
Step 1.4 Check door latch:
Open the door and check the latch assembly. The latch assembly should be free of grease and dirt. Simulate the function of the door latch with a spare striker or an adapted screwdriver. Check for unusual resistance in the system.
Service:
If you can feel unusual resistance when sliding a striker in the latch, replace the door latch.
Never use grease on the door latches!
Part numbers with latest material status shown.
Warranty Information