Assembling the Crank Mechanism

Special tools
951 2767
999 1801
999 5676

Note! As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and/or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.

Tightening torques
For tightening torques not in the text refer to Specifications.

Cleaning
Ensure that the all components are completely clean.
Blow clean the oil ducts in the block, intermediate section and pan.

Classification of main bearings
Wipe clean the bearing positions in the block and the intermediate section.





Check that the components are clean and undamaged.
Check the classification on the block and crankshaft.
The classification marking is at the rear edge of the block and the crankshaft. The classification is read from digit 1 to 7. The first letter after digit I is the classification of main bearing 1. The bearing positions are numbered starting at the front of the engine.





Selecting bearings

Using the table, install the main bearings in the cylinder block and the intermediate section.
The axial bearing is positioned by bearing position S.
E.g.: The marking on the block at bearing position I is B.
The marking on the crankshaft at the corresponding bearing position is C.
Therefore the bearing in the block is marked red and the bearing in the intermediate section is marked yellow.

Note! The thickest of the bearing caps must always be installed in the intermediate section. This is keep the center line as straight as possible.





The intermediate section
Wipe the surfaces dry.
Apply liquid gasket 11 61 OS9 to the intermediate section.
The surface must be completely covered without any excess. Use roller 951 2767

Thoroughly lubricate all the bearing shells and the surface of the axial bearing.

Tightening the intermediate section
Install the two old screws for the flywheel/carrier plate at the rear edge of the crankshaft.
Lift these and the front of the crankshaft.
Carefully position the crankshaft in the block.
The crankshaft must not be turned before the intermediate section has been torque tightened. Position the intermediate section.
Install all screws. Draw the intermediate section down towards the block.


Note! Use new M10 screws.

Part 2 Of 2:

Tighten in the numerical order illustrated.

Markings the connecting rod (where applicable)





Assemble the connecting rod. Check that the cover is facing the correct direction. Tighten to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
Secure the large end of the connecting rod in a vise with soft jaws (copper or aluminum).
Mark both halves with the cylinder number. Use a center punch or number punch.

Installing piston rings
Use piston ring pliers.

Part 1 Of 2:

Part 2 Of 2:

Turn the piston rings so that the piston ring openings are approximately 120° from each other.

Assembling pistons and connecting rods





There is an arrow on top of the piston. This must be turned forwards in the cylinder block.
The connecting rods are symmetrical and can be turned freely. Marked rods however must be turned in the same direction.
Assemble the connecting rod and piston with the piston pin.
Check that the classification and any numbering for each cylinder/piston diameter correspond.
Install both snap rings for the piston pins. Check that the snap rings are positioned correctly in the piston.
Wipe clean around the bearing recess in the connecting rod and the cap.
Install the bearing shells.

Caution: If reusing the bearing shells, they must be installed in the same position as before.

Installing the pistons in the cylinder bores
Use a cylinder ring compressor.
Lubricate the cylinder bore, the pistons and the bearing shells.





Turn the crankshaft so that the connecting rod pin is at Bottom Dead Center (BDC) for the cylinder the piston is to be inserted in.
Ensure that the engine is in a position where the cylinder bore forms as vertical a line as possible.

Note! The arrow on top of the piston must point forwards. Ensure that the classifications correspond!

Carefully press/tap the piston down (using the shaft of a hammer or similar).
When the piston has released from the piston ring compressor, remove it and press the piston down until the connecting rod reaches the connecting rod pin.

Tightening the connecting rod cover
Turn the engine 180° in the stand.
Install the cover. Check that any markings correspond.





Lubricate and install new seals. Tighten in two stages:
1. 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)
2. Angle-tighten 90°.

Check that the connecting rod can be moved sideways.

Note! The crankshaft must not be rotated before the connecting rod cover has been tightened.

Installing the oil pump suction pipe





Install a new sealing ring on the suction pipe.
Carefully press the suction pipe down into the intermediate section.
Check that the sealing ring is correctly positioned.
Tighten.
Install new sealing rings for the oil pan oil ducts.

Installing the oil pan
Wipe the surfaces dry.
Apply liquid gasket 11 61 059 to the oil pan. Use roller 951 2767.
The surface must be completely covered without any excess.





Position the pan and install all screws

Caution: Check that the rear edge of the oil pan is in line with the rear edge of the cylinder block. Permitted tolerance is ± 0.025 mm (± 0.001 inch).

Use a steel ruler and feeler gauge.
Tighten the screws from the rear of the pan and forward.

Installing the oil cooler





Install new sealing rings in the oil pan.
Install the oil cooler. Tighten.

Installing the rear crankshaft seal
Use standard handle 999 1801 and drift 999 5676.
Lubricate the drift face and thread the sealing ring onto the drift.





Tap in the seal until the drift bottoms against the block.