Automatic Transmission/Transaxle: Service and Repair
SPECIAL TOOLS
- Torque Socket Wrench tool No. 115 8147, or equivalent
- Tool No. 951 0030, or equivalent
- Protractor tool No. 951 2050, or equivalent
- Mobile Jack tool No. 998 5972, or equivalent
- Lifting Beam tool No. 999 5006, or equivalent
- Support Rails tool No. 999 5033, or equivalent
- Tool No. 999 5045, or equivalent
- Hook tool No. 999 5186, or equivalent
- Lifting Hook tool No. 999 5460, or equivalent
- Counterhold tool No. 999 5461, or equivalent
- Disconnecting tool No. 999 5462, or equivalent
- Fixture tool No. 999 5463, or equivalent
- Seal Plug tool No. 999 5488, or equivalent
- Fork Jack tool No. 999 5534, or equivalent
- Counterhold tool No. 999 5540, or equivalent
- Protective Sleeve tool No. 999 5562, or equivalent
- Support tool No. 999 5563, or equivalent
- Universal Fixture tool No. 999 5972, or equivalent
- Refer to special tool section for additional tool information.
NOTE: Avoid skin contact with transmission fluid
REMOVAL
1. Preparation
- The methods described apply to all engine variants.
- The illustrations show mainly the B5234T Turbo engine in its early and later versions.
- The illustrations show the righthand drive variant only when there are differences in the working method from a left-hand drive.
2. Adjust steering wheel position
- Slacken wheel adjusting lever.
- Press wheel forward into bottom position and angle upward as far as possible.
- Lock wheel in position with lever.
- Move gearshift selector to position N.
3. Remove:
- Battery
- Battery shelf
- Air Cleaner Housing ACL complete with inlet pipe.
Detach timing valve from ACL housing. (Only cars with Turbo engines.)
4. Models with Turbo engines, early versions proceed as follows:
- Remove clamp from charge air pipe.
- Remove hose from pipe.
- Remove:
Air intake pipe (from ACL) to Turbocharger
Cover over the control pulley.
- Remove:
Pipe to throttle body. Keep pipe to one side with a tie strap
The upper oil cooler hose to the engine radiator.
- Seal all openings to oil connections with plastic plugs.
5. Models with Turbo engines, late versions
- Remove:
Cover over the control pulley.
Detach throttle cable from control pulley and bracket
Charge air pipe between Turbocharger TC and radiator.
Loosen bracket at the torque arm support.
Reinstall nut on support
Air intake pipe (from ACL) to Turbocharger.
6. Models with Turbo engines, late versions (Continued)
- Remove:
Charge air pipe to throttle body TB
The upper oil cooler hose to the engine radiator
- Seal all openings to oil connections with plastic plugs.
- Keep the lower pipe to the charge air cooler to one side with a tie strap.
7. Removal of transmission cable and connector
- Remove:
Transmission cable from transmission
Connector from transmission.
Remember rubber seal.
Cable clamps retaining ground lead/cable harness to the transmission or sub-frame as follows:
NOTE: The fastening points may vary for different model years.
EARLY TYPE:
- Transmission vacuum hose from clip.
LATE TYPE:
- Detach/unclip the cable conduit from the transmission
- Detach the H02S connector/connectors from the bracket on the transmission.
8. Remove
- Detach hoses leading to transmission oil cooler.
- Inlet hose connected to cooler upper quick-coupling and oil return hose to transmission.
- Remove oil dipstick pipe.
- Seal all openings with plastic plugs
- Cars with EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation System
9. Remove
- Loosen nut to the rear engine mounting cushion
- Remove:
screws between the engine
transmission and transmission
starter motor (5 screws).
- Lift radiator overflow tank from mounting and let it lie loose.
10. Remove
- Detach ground plate from firewall.
- Remove screws on upper torque rod - torque arm at engine.
- Install lifting yoke tool No. 999 5534, or equivalent, to torque rod/engine.
11. Installation of lifting device
- Install:
Support rails tool No. 999 5033, or equivalent, to fender edges.
Lifting beam tool No. 999 5006, or equivalent, to supports.
Locate the beam directly above the eye on the yoke.
Lifting hook tool No. 999 5460, or equivalent.
NOTE: When using the early type of lifting hook (A) the hook tool No. 999 5186, or equivalent, must be connected between the lifting fork and the lifting hook. Lifting hook, late versions (B).
- Tighten the hook approx. 5 mm (0.2 inch) to relieve engine mounts slightly.
Measure and record the distance between lifting beam and spark plug cover.
12. Remove:
- Front wheels
- ABS sensor from stub axle (left side)
NOTE: Do not separate the connector halves.
- Remove brake line and ABS cable brackets (both sides).
Detach the brackets and let them hang loose.
13. Remove:
- The two front plastic nuts for the inner guards (both sides) and the two Torx screws on the left-hand side (early version).
- Left drive shaft nuts.
Free the nuts of the locking tabs. (Only applies to early versions.)
Install counterhold 999 5461 (4 wheel studs) or 999 5540 (5 wheel studs). Remove nut. Detach drive shaft end in the hub. Knock the drive shaft end in the hub approx. 10-15 mm (0.4"-0.6 inch). Use a plastic or copper hammer.
14. Remove:
- Front splash guard, both screws.
Press the splash guard forwards to free the retainers at the rear edge or the panel.
Detach the guard at the front and remove it.
- Splashguard under the engine. (Early type)
15. Remove:
- Remove link/ball joint from stub axle (both sides)
- Attach protective sleeves tool No. 999 5562, or equivalent, on the ball joints (both sides).
- Disconnect links from anti-roll bar.
16. Remove:
- Mounting screw for cable conduit on sub-frame, and unhook from the sub-frame.
- Undo the EVAP canister with its hoses from the subframe
- Cut tie securing hoses and hang canister on body.
- Loosen exhaust pipe clamp behind the catalytic convertor.
17. Draining of transmission oil
- Remove:
Oil pipe bracket screws
The two bolts securing torque rod mounting support on transmission.
- Drain transmission oil.
NOTE:
- Only if the transmission or oil is to be replaced.
- Drain plug torque: 40 Nm
WARNING: Oil may be extremely hot
18. Right-hand drive models only:
- Remove crash guard over the steering gear (2 screws).
19. Detach right drive shaft
- Remove bearing cap.
Pull out interior section of drive shaft and at the same time fold out spring strut.
NOTE: Ensure the seal An the transmission is not damaged.
- Reinstall seal plug tool No. 999 5488, or equivalent in transmission.
- Let drive shaft rest against sub-frame. Tape drive shaft end to- pipe bends.
- Right-hand drive models only:
Let the drive shaft end rest temporarily against the oil pipe.
20. Removal of screw, front engine mount/sub-frame
- Undo the screw on the engine mount/steering gear approx. one turn.
- Remove the mounting nuts which fasten the steering gear to the sub-frame (5 nuts).
- Right-hand drive models only:
Remove the nut (A) on the crash guard/sub-frame.
21. Remove sub-frame from car
- Place hoist tool No. 998 5972, or equivalent, using a light pressure, as a support beneath left side of sub-frame.
- Remove sub-frame support bracket screws in the body (both sides).
- Unscrew the two screws between the frame and body (right side) approx. 15 mm (0.6 inch).
- Remove bolts on left-hand side.
22. Right-hand drive models only:
- Lower sub-frame approx. 100 mm (4 inch).
- Ensure that steering gear studs (five) and crash guard plate studs are clear of the frame.
- Remove the screws on the anti-roll bar bearing cap (left).
Slacken bolts on right-hand side until held by just a few threads.
- Tie the anti-roll bar up on the steering gear, as shown in the illustration.
23. Lowering of sub-frame
NOTE:
- Check that the screws on the steering gear come free from the sub-frame.
- Make sure that the link is free from the drive shaft boot on the right side.
- Remove the engine hoist.
- Let the sub-frame hang free on the screws on the right.
- Right-hand drive models only:
- Tape up the rear side of the drive shaft end to the oil pipe.
- Remove ground cable from transmission.
24. Removal
- Hang up the steering gear with hook tool No. 999 5045, or equivalent, from the hole on the frame member flange.
- Illustration above shows a right-hand drive car.
- Remove the screws on the steering gear, engine mount and the nut on the top side of the engine mount.
Remove engine mounting cushion.
NOTE: Make sure that the steering gear hangs securely on the hook so that the lower steering shaft does not slide out from the steering column.
25. Loosen:
- The clamps for the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) cable from cover over engine mount.
- Connector and cable for Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
- Remove:
Cover at rear engine mounting.
Rear engine mounting from transmission.
26. Removal of left drive shaft
- Rotate and fold out spring strut.
Tap on the drive shaft end with a plastic or copper hammer and pull drive shaft out of the hub.
Remove drive shaft from transmission.
- Use disconnecting tool No. 999 5462, or equivalent, between the transmission and the inside of drive shaft.
NOTE: Take care that the seal rings in the transmission and the boot on the drive shaft are not damaged.
- Reinstall seal plug tool No. 999 5488, or equivalent, in transmission
- Clean off traces of metal adhesive from the spline joint (hub-drive shaft).
27. Lowering of engine and transmission
- Lower using lifting hook until the distance between the frame and the spark plug cover is approx. 320 mm (12.5 inch).
NOTE:
- If the engine is lowered too much, the exhaust pipe can press the steering gear down.
- Make sure wires and hoses are not pinched or stretched and that the engine dipstick is free from the
28. Removal
- Attach universal tool No. 999 5972, or equivalent and transmission fixture tool No. 999 5463, or equivalent, to hoist.
- Attach the transmission fixture to the transmission using the screws from the torque rod retainer.
- At the same time, fit bearing plate (marked tool No. 999 5463-1), or equivalent, on fixture.
Apply hoist using light pressure.
29. Removal
- Remove torque converter screws (6 screws).
- Use Torx TX50 socket (early models TX40).
- Remove the lower plastic nut and bend out the right inner fender. Rotate crankshaft using socket wrench.
- Remove the screws between the engine and transmission (7 screws).
30. Remove transmission
- Make sure torque converter is removed with transmission and does not slide off stator shaft.
Use hole in torque converter cover to press the torque converter down.
See illustration on left.
NOTE: Do not pries toward carrier plate increment rim for the flywheel sensor
31. Cleaning and inspection
- Remove oil pipe with hose from transmission
- Rinse pipe and hose with Dexron II E/Ford-Mercon ATF oil.
- Attach oil pipe to new transmission
- Place a new O-ring on the quick-coupling.
32. Cleaning and inspection
- Flush oil cooler with Dexron II E/Ford-Mercon ATF oil.
- Attach a hose to upper cooler connection.
- Place a container beneath the return hose.
- Flush with Dexron II E/Ford-Mercon ATF oil.
33. Inspection of carrier plate
- Make sure:
Carrier plate is not damaged or cracked
- Contact surfaces between the transmission and engine are clean, and that guide bushings are not faulty and are in place.
- Bushings for torque converter in crankshaft are not faulty.
34. Cleaning and inspection
- Make sure contact surfaces on torque converter are clean.
- Apply a light coating of grease to torque converter guide studs and in the holes for the guide sleeves on the torque converter cover.
- Make sure torque converter is as far into the transmission as possible.
- Check with a ruler.
The distance between the cover and retaining tabs should be approximately 14 mm (0.55 inch).
35. Installation of transmission
- Install transmission.
- Use transmission fixture to adjust the height and angle.
- Fit transmission into engine.
- Reinstall screws (seven screws).
Tighten alternately to a light pressure.
- Then tighten the screws to: 50 Nm
NOTE: Check carefully during tightening that the guide sleeves locate correctly in their guide holes and that the torque converter cover is contact with the engine before torque tightening.
- Remove fixture and hoist from transmission.
36. Installation of torque converter screws
NOTE: Use new bolts, Torx TX50
- Fit torque converter to carrier plate by turning engine with the crankshaft pulley nut.
Then rotate the torque converter (accessible through cover opening, see picture on left).
- Loosely insert all six screws.
Screw until heads are against the carrier plate.
Tighten to 35 Nm
- Use Torx TX50 socket (early models TX40 must be changed to TX50).
NOTE: Remove the socket wrench from the crankshaft.
37. Installation
- Raise engine and transmission
- Screw lifting hook tool No. 999 5460, or equivalent, up to the measurement, noted earlier in step 11, between the lifting beam and the spark plug cover
- Make sure the dip stick pipe is clear of the fan and that hoses or wires are not pinched.
38. Installation of the rear engine mounting on the transmission
- Install the mounting on the transmission (3 screws).
- Tighten the rearmost two.
Tighten to: 50 Nm
- Remove the front screw.
- Install the cover using the mounting screw.
- Press the cover up against the mounting and tighten the screw.
Tighten to: 50 Nm
39. Installation of the engine mount
- Guide the engine mount location dowel into the cover.
- Use a new nut.
Put the nut on loosely.
- Install the screw for the steering gear/engine mount.
- Do not tighten the screw.
- Remove support hook tool No. 999 5045, or equivalent.
- Install:
Heated Oxygen Sensor (H02S) cable with clamps on cover.
Connector and cables for Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).
Ground cable to transmission.
40. Right-hand drive models only
- Remove the tape from the drive shaft and let the shaft rest on the oil pipe.
- Raise sub-frame to approx. 100 mm (4 inch) from the body.
- Position steering gear on right side and crash guard in sub-frame.
Reinstall screws to anti-roll bar left bearing cap and tighten both bearing caps.
Tighten to: 50 Nm
41. Reinstallation of sub-frame
NOTE:
- Use four new 14 mm screws.
- Grease the screw threads.
- Be careful to align the steering gear screws against the frame!
- Commence on left-hand side.
Raise sub-frame on hoist.
- Install frame and support plate bolts
Tighten sub-frame bolts first to 105 Nm + 120° and then support plate bolts to 50 Nm
Use protractor gauge tool No. 951 2050, or equivalent.
Transfer hoist to right-hand side and repeat procedure.
42. Remove lifting hook, lifting beam and support rails.
- Lifting fork from the engine.
- Tighten nut on the rear engine mounting cushion to: 50 Nm
43. Install:
- Steering gear nuts (five).
Use new nuts
Tighten to: 50 Nm
- Right-hand drive models only:
Nut on crash guard/sub-frame (A).
Tighten to: 50 Nm
- Screw for sub-frame - front engine mounting.
- Tighten the screws on the front and rear engine mounting.
Tighten to: 50 Nm
44. Install:
- Torque rod support's fastening in the transmission.
NOTE: Use new bolts.
- Tightening torques:
Late version with 10 mm 35 Nm + 60°
Early version with 8 mm screw: 18 Nm + 90°
Use protractor gauge tool No. 951 2050, or equivalent
- Screws on oil pipe brackets.
Tighten to: 25 Nm
- Tighten exhaust pipe clamp.
- Wiggle the pipes during tightening
45. Installation of right drive shaft
NOTE: Make sure that the seal rings in the transmission and the gaiter on the drive shaft are not damaged.
- Replace bearing cap.
Tighten to: 25 Nm
46. Replacing of crash guard above steering gear(right-hand drive models only)
- 2 screws
Tighten to: 80 Nm
47. Installation of left drive shaft
- Ensure that the ABS sensor pulse wheel is free from dirt.
- Press the drive shaft in firmly so that it locks securely with its lock ring on to the differential gear groove.
- Check by pulling carefully on the drive shaft CV housing.
NOTE: Make sure that the seal rings in the transmission and the boot on the drive shaft are not damaged
48. Installation
- Apply metallic adhesive part No. 1161370-0, or equivalent, on the drive shaft splines to the hub as shown in the illustration above
- Fold out and rotate spring strut and fit the drive shaft into the hub.
- Use holder tool No. 999 5563, or equivalent, to hold the link down.
- Replace drive shaft nut by hand.
Early type (20 mm):
Use a new oiled nut.
Late model (22 mm):
The old nut can be reinstalled.
Oil the nut.
- Remove retainer.
NOTE: Take care that the drive shaft boot is not damaged.
49. Installation
- Install on both sides:
Link/ball joint to stub axle.
Remove socket tool No 999 5562, or equivalent, from ball joint.
Make sure the ball-joint spindle's groove lines up with the screw hole in the stub axle.
Use new lock nuts on bolts
Tighten to: 50 Nm
Link to anti-roll bar. Use new lock nuts
Tighten to: 50 Nm
50. Tightening of left drive shaft nut
- Use counterhold tool No. 999 5461 (4 wheel studs) or tool No. 999 5540 (5 wheel studs), or equivalent and protractor tool No. 951 2050, or equivalent.
Tighten to: 120 Nm +60°
- Remove counterhold.
- Lock the nuts:
Early type (20 mm):
Knock the nut locking flange down in the groove on the drive shaft.
Late model (22 mm):
The lock is self-locking.
51. Install:
- Brake hose/ABS cable bracket (both sides).
- ABS sensor on wheel spindle.
NOTE: Make sure that the sensor seating is absolutely clean.
Clean the sensor with a soft brush.
Tighten sensor to: 10 Nm
- Plastic nuts (both sides) and Torx screws in inner fender liners (left side, early model).
52. Install:
- Cable conduit on sub-frame.
- Evaporative Emission Canister.
Clamp hoses with tie straps to the sub-frame.
Secure hoses in the subframe.
- Cover under engine. (Early type)
53. Install:
- The front cover.
Press into position at front.
Press forward and press upward at rear so that guide spigot is seated in slot.
Install screws.
- Wheels.
Lubricate the hub center location dowel for the rim with rust inhibitor part No. 1161030-0, or equivalent.
Tighten the studs lightly.
Torque diagonally.
Tighten to: 110 Nm
54. Install:
- Reinstall the screws between:
the engine and transmission
transmission and starter motor.
NOTE: Bracket for the cooler hose. (Early versions).
- Transmission to motor (3 screws)
Tighten to: 50 Nm
- Transmission to starter motor (2 screws)
Tighten to: 40 Nm
- Install:
Cable conduit on the transmission (Late versions)
HO2S connector (connectors) in the bracket (late version)
Oil dipstick pipe with new O-ring.
Tighten to: 25 Nm
55. Install:
- Clamp/clamps for wiring harness/ground cable
- Connector to transmission (Note: the seal)
- Oil cooler hoses
- Breather hose from transmission to clamp/mounting (early versions).
- Hoses to EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (only cars with EGR)
- Adjust the gear change cable and fit it on the transmission.
Refer to steps 9 through 12 of transmission shift cable replacement. Service and Repair
56. Install:
- Ground connection on firewall
- Screw and nut for torque arm/torque rod.
NOTE: Use new screw and locknut.
- Replacement part number lock nut P/N:
8 mm (on early version) part No. 948 645-7 or equivalent
10 mm (on late version) part No. 971 098-9, or equivalent
NOTE: On later version the lock nut is standard
- Tighten to:
8 mm: 18 Nm +120°
10 mm: 35 Nm +90°
57. Only cars with Turbo engines, early version:
- Install:
Hose to engine oil cooler
Intake pipe to throttle body
Intake pipe to Turbocharger
Hose to charge air pipe over engine.
Cover over the control pulley.
58. Only cars with Turbo engines, late version:
- Install:
Hose to engine oil cooler
Intake pipe to throttle body
- Remove the tie strap holding the lower pipe to the Charge Air Cooler CAC.
59. Install:
- Pipe from the turbocharger to the CAC.
Tighten nuts on pipe mounting in the torque arm rod to: 25 Nm
- Throttle cable to control pulley and locking clip in cable adjuster.
- Cover over the control pulley.
- Intake pipe to Turbocharger
60. Install:
- Expansion tank
- Battery shelf
- ACL with intake manifold and connections
- Timer valve to AGL housing. (Only cars with Turbo engines.)
- Battery
- Reset steering wheel position.
61. Checking of transmission oil level
- See Checking/Adjusting Oil Level. Testing and Inspection
NOTE:
- Only ATF oil which meets demands for both Dexron II E and Ford Mercon.
- When oil and transmission are cold and the engine is off, correct oil level reaches only a few mm up the dipstick.
62. Checking of DTCs
- Check that DTCs have been cleared.
63. Test driving
- Test drive with mode selector in all three positions (E, W. S)
64. Checking of oil level
- Check oil level when transmission and oil are hot
- The gear selector should be in position P and the engine idling.
- At room temperature (+20°C=68°F) the oil barely reaches the dipstick.
- The "Cold Range"
The "cold range" (+40°C=104°F) is reached after approximately 5 minutes of idling
- The "hot Range" (+80°C=176°F) is reached after approximately 30 minutes of highway driving at an ambient temperature of +15°C (59°F).
- See also Checking/Adjusting Oil Level. Testing and Inspection
65. After test driving check that no DTCs have been posted
64. Returning of the old transmission unit (only when complete transmission is replaced)
- Returning the old transmission unit
To be able to accurately analyze the transmission fault, information is required on all symptoms which have motivated the replacement of the unit.
This information should be reported on the "Diagnosis and Check List" form which has been prepared.
Make sure the form has been filled out accurately.
Write clearly all fault symptoms under the heading "Customer Complaints".
After test driving, fill in the results.
Place completed form in a plastic folder behind torque converter so that it will not fall out.
The different sections of the form are to be used as follows:
1 The white copy goes with the transmission
2 The yellow copy is sent to the respective importer
3 The pink copy is kept by the issuing party.