FREE REPAIR MANUALS & LABOR GUIDES 1982-2013 Vehicles
Courtesy of Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Fluid Leak Diagnosis

Most fluid leaks can be located and repaired by visually finding the leak and replacing or repairing the necessary parts. The following procedures may aid in finding leaks.

LOCATING THE LEAK
1. Identify the fluid, determine whether it is engine oil, automatic transaxle fluid, power steering fluid, etc.
2. At what point is the fluid leaking from? After running the vehicle a minimum of 15 miles to reach operating temperature, park vehicle over a large sheet of paper. The drippings on the paper should indicate the approximate location of leak.
3. Visually check around suspected component. Check around all gasket mating surfaces for leaks. A mirror may be helpful inspecting components that are hard to see.
4. If leak still cannot be found, it may be necessary to clean suspected area with a degreaser, steam or spray solvent. Clean and dry the area well. Operate vehicle at normal operating temperature and varying speeds for several miles. After operating vehicle inspect suspected component. If leak cannot be found try powder or black light and dye method.

POWDER METHOD
1. Clean suspected area.
2. Apply an aerosol-type powder (such as foot powder) to suspected area.
3. Operate vehicle under normal operating conditions.
4. Visually inspect suspected component. You should be able to trace leak path over powder to leak.

BLACK LIGHT AND DYE METHOD
A dye and black light kit (SA9175-NE) is available for finding leaks. Refer to manufacturer's directions when using kit.
1. Pour specified amount of dye into leaking component.
2. Operate vehicle under normal operating conditions.
3. Direct light towards suspected component. The dyed fluid will appear as a brightly colored path leading back to leak.

REPAIRING THE FLUID LEAK
Once you have found the leak point, you must determine the cause of the leak. Before attempting to repair leak, check to be sure none of the following conditions exist.
- Fasteners are not torqued to specification.
- Fastener threads and fastener holes are dirty or corroded.
- Gaskets, seals, or sleeves are misaligned, damaged, or worn.
- Seal bores or gasket surfaces are damaged, warped or scratched.
- The manual shaft is nicked or damaged.
- A loose or worn bearing causing excess seal or sleeve wear.
- Case or component porosity.
- The fluid level is too high.
- A vent is plugged or a vent tube is damaged.
- The fluid contains water or coolant.
- The fluid drain back holes are plugged.





POSSIBLE POINTS OF OIL LEAKS
- Transaxle oil pan (15)
- The attaching bolts are not torqued correctly.
- The gasket is damaged or is improperly installed.
- The oil pan or mounting face is not flat.
- Transaxle case
- The output speed sensor seal is damaged (11).
- The manual shaft seal is damaged (6).
- The fittings on oil cooler are loose or damaged.
- The axle shaft seals are worn or damaged (5, 13).
- The plug from line pressure tap plug is loose (4).
- The casting is porous (2).
- Actuator guide seal (1)
- Oil cooler line seals (3)
- Pass-through connector seal (7)
- Oil level control plug (10)
- Side cover gaskets (14)
- Leak from converter end
- The converter seal is damaged (8).
- The seal lip is cut (check the converter hub for damage).
- The bushing has been moved forward and is damaged.
- A garter spring is missing from the seal.
- The converter is leaking from a weld area (9).
- A casting is porous in case or pump.
- Fluid may come out from fill and vent cap (12).
- Overfilled.
- If fluid appears milky, water or coolant may be in fluid.
- The case is porous.
- A vent is plugged.
- The drain back holes are plugged.