FREE REPAIR MANUALS & LABOR GUIDES 1982-2013 Vehicles
Courtesy of Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Installation

NOTE: Prior to installing transmission, apply Multi-Purpose Grease DOAZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C45-A to the pilot hub.

1. Tighten converter housing drain plug to 28-30 Nm (21-22 ft. lbs.).





2. Proper installation of the torque converter requires full engagement of the converter hub in the pump gear. To accomplish this, the torque converter must be pushed and at the same time rotated through what feels like two "notches" or bumps.
3. With torque converter properly installed, place transmission on jack and secure with safety chain and install Torque Converter Holding Tool T97T-7902-A.
4. Rotate the torque converter so the drive studs and converter housing access plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
5. Align the orange balancing marks on converter stud and flywheel bolt hole if balancing marks are present.

CAUTION: The converter housing is piloted into position by dowels in the rear of the engine block. The torque converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.

6. With the transmission mounted on a transmission jack, move the torque converter and transmission assembly forward into position being careful not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The torque converter face must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
7. Remove the Torque Converter Holding Tool T97T-7902-A.
8. Install two converter housing-to-engine retaining bolts at the engine dowel locations. Tighten to 55-68 Nm (41-50 ft. lbs.).

NOTE: Before installing the torque converter housing-to-flywheel retaining nut, a check should be made to make sure that the torque converter is properly seated. The torque converter should move freely with respect to the flywheel. Grasp the stud. Movement back and forth should result in a metallic clank noise if the converter is properly seated. If the torque converter will not move, the transmission must be removed and the torque converter repositioned so that the impeller hub is properly engaged in the pump gear.

9. Install the remaining converter housing-to-engine retaining bolts and tighten to 55-68 Nm (41-50 ft. lbs.).
10. Remove the safety chain from the automatic transmission.
11. Install the fluid filler tube and secure it to the cylinder block with the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 38-51 Nm (28-37 ft. lbs.). If the fluid filler tube is loose in the case, it should be replaced.
12. Install the cooler tubes to the transmission case. Tighten lines to 20-26 Nm (15-19 ft. lbs.).
13. Remove the jack supporting the front of the engine.
14. Raise the transmission. Position the engine and transmission support insulator and engine and transmission support and engine damper mounting body bracket to the frame side supports and install the retaining bolts.
15. Lower the transmission and install the rear engine support-to-crossmember nut.
16. Remove the transmission jack.
17. Connect the transmission wiring harness.
18. Install the starter motor.
19. Install four flywheel-to-converter retaining nuts. Tighten to 27-46 Nm (20-33 ft. lbs.).
20. Install converter access cover and cover plate bolts on engine oil pan. Tighten to 16-22 Nm (12-16 ft. lbs.).
21. Install exhaust system.
22. Install the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and connect wiring.
23. Install the driveshaft.
24. Remove safety stands and lower the vehicle. Connect the battery ground cable.
25. Fill transmission to specification. Start engine and add fluid as required to achieve the proper fluid level.
26. Check the transmission, torque converter assembly and oil cooler tubes for leaks.