FREE REPAIR MANUALS & LABOR GUIDES 1982-2013 Vehicles
Courtesy of Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Repairing

SURFACE PREPARATION
1. Remove all the soil and oil from the wheel surface with either high-pressure steam or solvent. Suitable solvents would be mineral spirits and regular paint thinner, obtained in paint stores.
2. Remove any adherent soil or oxidation products by using a wire brush.
3. Clean the surface again with solvent, using mineral spirits to remove loose products.

WARNING:
^ WHEN PAINTING USED WHEELS, DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE AMOUNTS OF PAINT. THIS COULD CAUSE WHEEL HUB BOLT LOOSENING WHICH COULD LEAD TO PREMATURE WHEEL FAILURE OR LOOSE WHEELS, WHICH COULD LEAD TO A SERIOUS, IF NOT FATAL, INJURY.
^ WHEN PAINTING WHEELS, ALWAYS ALLOW THE PARTS TO DRY COMPLETELY PRIOR TO MOUNTING. IF THE PAINT IS NOT DRY WHEN THE WHEEL IS MOUNTED, TORQUE VALUES WILL NOT BE MAINTAINED BECAUSE OF THE PAINT BEING "FORCED OUT".


4. Apply a clear protective or pigmented product as described below.

CLEAR PROTECTIVE COATING
Spray about 1-1/2 to 2 mils wet film thickness, air curing clear epoxy polyamide meeting Military Specification MIL-C-22750 (WEP) or equivalent. To properly spray this particular coating, mix components A and B of the two-part organic coating and thin where necessary with 10 percent toluol. Spray apply with a spray gun at a pressure of 207-276 kPa (30-40 psi) (suction feed).

PIGMENTED PROTECTIVE COATING
Primer: spray the inhibited primer, meeting Military Specification MIL-C-23377 (SEP) or equivalent. Spray this primer at a 1 to 2 mil wet film thickness. Allow to air dry from 2 to 4 hours before top-coating.
Top Coat: spray a 1-1/2 to 2 mil wet film of a leafing aluminum pigmented epoxy. Allow enough time to air dry before handling; overnight will usually be sufficient.