Cylinder Block Assembly: Service and Repair

Note: While it may be possible to do some of these procedures in-vehicle, Lexus manuals do not offer such a repair article for this year model. The procedures that Lexus Manuals do offer for engine block related components follow:

Remove Engine from vehicle. Service and Repair

PREPARATION FOR DISASSEMBLY

1. REMOVE CLUTCH COVER AND DISC (M/T)
2. REMOVE FLYWHEEL (M/T)
3. REMOVE DRIVE PLATE (A/T)
4. REMOVE REAR END PLATE
- Remove the bolt and end plate.
5. INSTALL ENGINE TO ENGINE STAND FOR DISASSEMBLY
6. REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR
7. REMOVE TIMING BELT AND PULLEYS Service and Repair
8. REMOVE CYLINDER HEADS Service and Repair
9. REMOVE WATER PUMP
10. REMOVE OIL PAN AND OIL PUMP
11. REMOVE OIL FILTER
12. REMOVE KNOCK SENSOR

- Using SST, remove the knock sensor. SST 09816-30010

13. REMOVE WATER BY-PASS PIPE

- Remove the two bolts, two nuts and by-pass pipe.

14. REMOVE NO.2 IDLER PULLEY BRACKET

- Remove the three bolts and mounting bracket.

DISASSEMBLY OF CYLINDER BLOCK

1. REMOVE REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER

- Remove the six boils and retainer.

2. CHECK CONNECTING ROD THRUST CLEARANCE

- Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance while moving the connecting rod back and forth.
- Standard thrust clearance: 0.150 - 0.330 mm (0.0059 - 0.0130 in.)
- Maximum thrust clearance: 0.36 mm (0.0150 in.) If the thrust clearance is greater than maximum, replace the connecting rod assembly. If necessary, replace the crankshaft.

3. REMOVE CONNECTING ROD CAPS AND CHECK OIL CLEARANCE

(a) Using a punch or numbering stamp, place the matchmarks on the connecting rod and cap to ensure correct reassembly.
(b Using SST, remove the connecting rod cap nuts. SST 09011-38121
(c) Using a plastic-faced hammer, lightly tap the connecting rod bolts and lift off the connecting rod cap.

Note: Keep the lower bearing inserted with the connecting cap.

(d) Cover the connecting rod bolts with a short piece of hose to protect the crankshaft from damage.
(e) Clean the crank pin and bearing.
(f) Check the crank pin and bearing for pitting and scratches.
- If the crank pin or bearing is damaged, replace the bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.
(g) Lay a strip of Plastigage across the crank pin.
(h) Install the connecting rod cap with the two nuts.

Torque:
1st 250 kg-cm (18 ft-lb, 25 N.m)
2nd Turn 90°

Note: Do not turn the crankshaft.

(i) Remove the two nuts and connecting rod cap. (See procedure (b) and (c) above)
(d) Cover the connecting rod bolts with a short piece of hose to protect the crankshaft from damage.
(e) Clean the crank pin and bearing.
(f) Check the crank pin and bearing for pitting and scratches
- If the crank pin or bearing is damaged, replace the bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.

(g) Lay a strip of Plastigage across the crank pin
(h) Install the connecting rod cap with the two nuts.

Torque:
1st 250 kg-cm (18 ft-lb, 25 N.m)
2nd Turn 90°

Note: Do not turn the crankshaft.

(i) Remove the two nuts and connecting rod cap. (See procedure (b) and (c) above)

(j) Measure the Plastigage at its widest point.

Standard oil clearance:

STD 0.028-0.065 mm (0.0011-0.0026 in.)
U/S 0.25 0.027 - 0.080 mm (0.0011-0.0031 in.)
Maximum oil clearance: 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)

If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace the bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.

Note: If using a standard bearing, replace with one having the same number marked on the connecting rod cap. There are three sizes of standard bearings. marked "1", "2" and "3" accordingly.

(Reference)

Standard sized bearing center wall thickness:

Mark "1" 1.484-1.488 mm (0.0584 - 0.0586 in.)
Mark "2" l.488-1.492mm (0.0586 - 0.0567 in.)
Mark "3" 1.492-1.496mm (0.0587 - 0.0589 in.)

(k) Completely remove the Plastigage.

4. REMOVE PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLIES
(a) Using a ridge reamer, remove the all carbon from the top of the cylinder.
(b) Cover the connecting rod bolts.
(c) Push the piston, connecting rod assembly and upper bearing through the top of the cylinder block.

Note: Keep the bearings, connecting rod and cap together. Arrange the piston and connecting rod assemblies in correct order.

5. CHECK CRANKSHAFT THRUST CLEARANCE

- Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance while prying the crankshaft back and forth with a screwdriver.

Standard thrust clearance: 0.020 - 0.220 mm (0.0008-0.0087 in.)
Maximum thrust clearance: 0.30 mm (0.0118 in.)

- If the thrust clearance is greater than maximum, replace the thrust washers as a set.

Thrust washer thickness: 2.440 - 2.490 mm (0.0961 - 0.0980 in.)

6. REMOVE MAIN BEARING CAP AND CHECK OIL CLEARANCE

(a) Uniformly loosen and remove the main bearing cap bolts in several passes in the sequence shown.

(b) Using a screwdriver, pry up the main bearing cap, and remove the main bearing cap, lower main bearings and lower thrust washers (No.2 journal position of main bearing cap only).

Note: Keep the lower main bearings and lower thrust washers together with the main bearing cap.

(c) Lift out the crankshaft.

Note: Keep the upper main bearings and upper thrust washers together with the cylinder block.

(d) Clean each main journal and bearing.
(e) Check each main journal and bearing for pitting and scratches.
- If the journal or bearing is damaged, replace the bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.
(f) Place the crankshaft on the cylinder block.

(g) Lay a strip of Plastigage across each journal.

(h) Install the main bearing cap with the eight bolts.

Torque:
1st 625 kg-cm (45 ft-lb. 61 N.m)
2nd Turn 90

Note: Do not turn the crankshaft.

(i) Remove the eight bolts and main bearing cap. (See procedure (a) and (b) above)

(j) Measure the Plastigage at its widest point. Standard clearance:

STD 0.029 - 0.056 mm (0.0011-0.0022 in.)
U/S 0.25 0.028 - 0.080 mm (0.0011-0.0031 in.)
Maximum clearance: 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)

Note: If replacing the cylinder block subassembly, the bearing standard clearance will be: 0.031 - 0.067 mm (0.0012 - 0.0026 in.)

- If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace the bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.

Note: If using a standard bearing, replace with one having the same number. If the number of the bearing cannot be determined, select the correct bearing by adding together the numbers imprinted on the cylinder block and crankshaft, then selecting the bearing with the same number as the total. There are five sizes of standard bearings, marked "1", "2", "3", "4" and "5" accordingly.

(k) Completely remove the Plastigage.

7. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT

(a) Lift out the crankshaft.
(b) Remove the upper main bearings and upper thrust washers from cylinder block.

Note: Arrange the main bearings and thrust washers in correct order.

INSPECTION OF CYLINDER BLOCK

1. REMOVE GASKET MATERIAL
- Using a gasket scraper, remove all the gasket material from the top surfaces of the cylinder block.

2. CLEAN CYLINDER BLOCK
- Using a soft brush and solvent, thoroughly clean the cylinder block.

3. INSPECT TOP SURFACES OF CYLINDER BLOCK FOR FLATNESS

- Using precision straight edge and feeler gauge, measure the top surfaces of the cylinder block for warpage.

Maximum warpage: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.) If warpage is greater than maximum, replace the cylinder block.

4. INSPECT CYLINDER FOR VERTICAL SCRATCHES

- Visually check the cylinder for vertical scratches. If deep scratches are present, rebore all six cylinders or replace the cylinder block.

5. INSPECT CYLINDER BORE DIAMETER

Note: There are three sizes of the standard cylinder bore diameter, marked "1", "2" and "3" accordingly. The mark is stamped on the top of the cylinder block.

- Using a cylinder gauge, measure the cylinder bore diameter at positions A, B and C in the thrust and axial directions.
- If the diameter is greater than maximum, rebore all six cylinders or replace the cylinder block.

6. REMOVE CYLINDER RIDGE

- If the wear is less than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.), using a ridge reamer, grind the top of the cylinder.

DISASSEMBLY OF PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLIES

1. CHECK FIT BETWEEN PISTON AND PISTON PIN

- Try to move the piston back and forth on the piston pin. If any movement is felt, replace the piston and pin as a set.

2. REMOVE PISTON RINGS
(a) Using a piston ring expander, remove the two compression rings.
(b) Remove the two side rails and oil ring expander by hand.

Note: Arrange the rings in correct order only.

3. DISCONNECT CONNECTING ROD FROM PISTON

- Using SST, press out the piston pin from the piston - SST 09221-25024 (09221-00020, 09221-00030, 09221-001 81, 09221-00190, 09221-00200)

Note: The piston and pin are a matched set.
- Arrange the pistons, pins, rings, connecting rods and bearings in correct order.

INSPECTION OF PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLIES

1. CLEAN PISTON

(a) Using a gasket scraper, remove the carbon from the piston top.
(b) Using a groove cleaning tool or broken ring, clean the piston ring grooves.
(c) Using solvent and a brush, thoroughly clean the piston.

Note: Do not use a wire brush.

2. INSPECT PISTON DIAMETER AND OIL CLEARANCE

Note: There are three sizes of the standard diameter, marked "1", "2" and "3" accordingly. The mark is stamped on the top of the piston.

(a) Using a micrometer, measure the piston diameter at right angles to the piston pin center line, 24.25 mm (0.9547 in.) from the piston head.

- Piston diameter:

(b) Measure the cylinder bore diameter in the thrust directions.
(c) Subtract the piston diameter measurement from the cylinder bore diameter measurement.

Standard oil clearance: 0.045 - 0.065 mm (0.0018 - 0.0026 in.)
Maximum oil clearance: 0.085 mm (0.0033 in.)

- If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace all the six pistons. If necessary, rebore all the six cylinders or replace the cylinder block.

Note (Use new cylinder block): Use a piston with the same number mark as the standard bore diameter marked on the cylinder block.

3. INSPECT CLEARANCE BETWEEN WALL OF RING GROOVE AND NEW PISTON RING

- Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between new piston ring and the wall of the piston ring groove.

Ring groove clearance:

No.1 0.010-0.080 mm (0.0004-0.0031 in.) No.2 0.030 - 0.070 mm (0.0012 - 0.0028 in.)

If the clearance is greater than maximum, replace the piston.

4. INSPECT PISTON RING END GAP

(a) Insert the piston ring into the cylinder bore.

(b) Using a piston, push the piston ring a little beyond the bottom of the ring travel, 100 mm (3.94 in.) from the top of the cylinder block.
(c) Using a feeler gauge, measure the ring end gap.

- If the end gap is greater than maximum, replace the piston ring. If the end gap is greater than maximum, even with a new piston ring, rebore all the six cylinders or replace the cylinder block.

5. INSPECT CONNECTING ROD

- Using a rod aligner, check the connecting rod alignment.
- Check for bending.

Maximum bending: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.) per 100 mm (3.94 in.)

- If bend is greater than maximum, replace the connecting rod assembly.

- Check for twist.

Maximum twist: 0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) per 100 mm (3.94 in.) If twist is greater than maximum replace the connecting rod assembly.

6. INSPECT CONNECTING ROD BOLTS

(a) Install the cap nut to the connecting rod bolt. Check that the cap nut can be turned easily by hand to the end of the thread.

(b) If the cap nut cannot be turned easily, measure the outer diameter of the compressed thread with a vernier caliper.

Note: If the location of this area cannot be judged by visual inspection, measure the outer diameter at the location shown in the illustration.

- If the outer diameter is less than minimum, replace the connecting rod and cap nut as a set.

BORING OF CYLINDERS

Note: Bore all the six cylinders for the oversized piston outside diameter.

- Replace the piston rings with ones to match the oversized pistons.

1. KEEP OVERSIZED PISTONS

Oversized piston diameter: 0/5 0.50 87.945 - 87.975 mm (3.4624 - 3.4636 in.)

2. CALCULATE AMOUNT TO BORE CYLINDER

(a) Using a micrometer, measure the piston diameter at right angles to the piston pin center line, 24.25 mm (0.9547 in.) from the piston head.
(b) Calculate the amount each cylinder is to be rebored as follows:

Size to be rebored = P + C - H
P = Piston diameter
C = Piston oil clearance 0.045 - 0.065 mm (0.0018 - 0.0026 in.)
H = Allowance for honing 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.) or less

3. BORE AND HONE CYLINDERS TO CALCULATED DIMENSIONS

Maximum honing: 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)

Note: Excess honing will destroy the finished roundness.

INSPECTION AND REPAIR OF CRANKSHAFT

1. INSPECT CRANKSHAFT FOR RUNOUT

(a) Place the crankshaft on V-blocks.
(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the circle runout at the center journal.

Maximum circle runout: 0.06 mm (0.0024 in.)

- If the circle runout is greater than maximum, replace the crankshaft.

2. INSPECT MAIN JOURNALS AND CRANK PINS

(a) Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of each main journal and crank pin.

- If the diameter is not as specified, check the oil clearance

(b) Check each main journal and crank pin for taper and out-of-round as shown.

Maximum taper and out-of-round: 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)

- If the taper or out-of-round is greater than maximum, grind or replace the crankshaft.

3. IF NECESSARY, GRIND AND HONE MAIN JOURNALS AND/OR CRANK PINS

- Grind and hone the main journals and/or crank pins to the finished undersized diameter.

- Install new main journal and/or crank pin undersized bearings.

REPLACEMENT OF CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS

Note: There are two methods (A and B) to replace the oil seal which are as follows:

1. REPLACE CRANKSHAFT FRONT OIL SEAL
A. If oil pump is removed from cylinder block:

(a) Using a screwdriver, pry out the oil seal.
(b) Using SST and a hammer, tap in a new oil seal until its surface is flush with the oil pump case edge. SST 09309-37010
(c) Apply MP grease to the oil seal lip.

B. If oil pump is installed to the cylinder block:

(a) Using a knife, cut off the oil seal lip.
(b) Using a screwdriver, pry out the oil seal.

Note: Be careful not to damage the crankshaft. Tape the screwdriver tip.

(c) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
(d) Using SST and a hammer, tap in the oil seal until its surface is flush with the oil pump case edge.

2. REPLACE CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL

A. If rear oil seal retainer is removed from cylinder block:

(a) Using screwdriver and hammer, tap out the oil seal.
(b) Using SST and a hammer, tap in a new oil seal until its surface is flush with the rear oil seal edge. SST 09223-56010
(c) Apply MP grease to the oil seal lip.

B. If rear oil seal retainer is installed to cylinder block:

(a) Align the front marks of the piston and connecting rod.
- Connecting rod front (mold) mark: B6, 1B, SA, C3 or etc.
(b) Coat the piston pin and piston hole of the piston with engine oil.

(c) Using SST, press in the piston pin - SST 09221-25024 (09221-00020, 09221-00030, 09221-00181, 09221-00190, 09221-00200)
(d) Check that the piston smoothly moves back and forth on the piston pin.

2. INSTALL PISTON RINGS

(a) Install the oil ring expander and two side rails by hand
(b) Using a piston ring expander, install the two compression rings with the code mark facing upward.

Code mark:
No.1 T or 1R
No.2 T2 or 2R

(c) Position the piston rings so that the ring ends are as shown.

Note: Do not align the ring ends.

3. INSTALL BEARINGS

(a) Align the bearing claw with the groove of the connecting rod or connecting cap.
(b) Install the bearings in the connecting rod and connecting rod cap.

ASSEMBLY OF CYLINDER BLOCK

Note: Thoroughly clean all parts to be assembled.
- Before installing the parts, apply new engine oil to all sliding and rotating surfaces.
- Replace all gaskets, 0-rings and oil seals with new parts.

1. INSTALL MAIN BEARINGS

Note: Main bearings come in widths of 20 mm (0.79 in.) and 22 mm (0.87 in.). Install the 22 mm(0.87 in.) bearings in the No.1 cylinder block journal position with the main bearing caps. Install the 20 mm (0.79 in.) bearings in the other positions.
- Upper bearings have an oil holes: lower bearings do not.

(a) Align the bearing claw with the claw groove of the main bearing cap or cylinder block.
(b) Install the bearings in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.

2. INSTALL UPPER THRUST WASHERS

- Install the thrust washers under the No.2 journal position of the block with the oil grooves facing outward.

3. PLACE CRANKSHAFT ON CYLINDER BLOCK
4. INSTALL MAIN BEARING CAP AND LOWER THRUST WASHERS

A. Place main bearing cap and lower thrust washers on cylinder block

(a) Install the thrust washers on the No.2 journal position of the bearing cap with the grooves facing outward.

(b) Install the main bearing cap with the front mark facing forward.

B. Install main bearing cap bolts

Note: The main bearing cap bolts are tightened in two progressive steps (steps (b) and (d)).
- If any main bearing cap bolt is broken or deformed, replace it.

(a) Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the heads of the main bearing caps.

(b) Install and uniformly tighten the eight main bearing cap bolts in several passes in the sequence shown.

Torque: 625 kg-cm (45 ft-lb, 61 N.m)

- If any one of the main bearing cap bolts does not meet the torque specification, replace the cap bolt.

(c) Mark the front of the main bearing cap bolt with paint.
(d) Retighten the main bearing cap bolts 90° in the numerical order shown.
(e) Check that the painted mark is now at a 90° angle to the front.
(f) Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.
(g) Check the crankshaft thrust clearance.

5. INSTALL PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLIES

(a) Cover the connecting rod bolts with a short piece of hose to protect the crankshaft from damage.

(b) Using a piston ring compressor, push the correctly numbered piston and connecting rod assemblies into each cylinder with the front mark of the piston facing forward.

6. INSTALL CONNECTING ROD CAPS

A. Place connecting rod cap on connecting rod

(a) Match the numbered connecting rod cap with the connecting rod.
(b) Install the connecting rod cap with the front mark facing forward.

B. Install connecting rod cap nuts

Note: The connecting rod cap nuts are tightened in two progressive steps (steps (b) and (d)).
- If any connecting rod bolt is broken or deformed, replace them.

(a) Apply a light of engine oil on the threads and under the nuts of the connecting rod cap.
(b) Using SST, install and alternately tighten the nuts of the connecting rod cap in several passes. SST 09011-38121

Torque: 250 kg-cm (18 ft-lb, 25 N.m)

- If any one of the connecting rod cap nuts does not meet the torque specification, replace the cap nut.

(c) Mark the front of the connecting rod cap nut with paint.
(d) Retighten the connecting rod cap nuts 90 in the numerical order shown.

(e) Check that the painted mark is now at a 90° angle to the front.
(f) Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.
(g) Check the connecting rod thrust clearance.

7. INSTALL REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER

(a) Remove any old packing (FIPG) material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the retainer and cylinder block.
- Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all the old packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces and sealing groove.
- Thoroughly clean all components to remove all the loose material.
- Using a non-residue solvent, clean both sealing surfaces.

(b) Apply seal packing to the retainer as shown in the figure. Seal packing: Part No.08826-00080 or equivalent

- Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 2 - 3 mm (0.08-0.12 in.) opening.

Note: Avoid applying an excessive amount to the surface.
- Parts must be assembled within 5 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be removed and reapplied.
- Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall cap.

(c) Install the retainer with the six bolts.

Torque: 80 kg-cm (69 in.lb, 7.8 N.m)

POST ASSEMBLY

1. INSTALL NO.2 IDLER PULLEY BRACKET

- Install the pulley bracket with the three bolts. Torque the bolts.

Torque: 380 kg-cm (27 ft-lb, 37 N.m)

2. INSTALL WATER BY-PASS PIPE

(a) Remove any old packing (FIPG) material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the by-pass pipe and cylinder block.

- Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all the old packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces and sealing groove.
- Thoroughly clean all components to remove all the loose material.
- Using a non-residue solvent, clean both sealing surfaces.
(b) Apply seal packing to the groove of the by-pass pipe. Seal packing: Part No.08826-00100 or equivalent
- Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 2 - 3 mm (0.08 0.12 in.) opening.

Note: Avoid applying an excessive amount to the surface.

- Parts must be assembled within 5 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be removed and reapplied.
- Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall cap.
(c) Install the by-pass pipe with the two bolts and two nuts.

Torque: 85 kg-cm (74 in.lb, 8.3 N.m)

3. INSTALL KNOCK SENSOR

- Using SST, install the knock sensor. SST 0981 6-30010

Torque: 450 kg-cm (33 ft-lb, 44 N.m)

4. INSTALL OIL FILTER
5. INSTALL OIL PUMP AND OIL PAN
6. INSTALL WATER PUMP
7. INSTALL CYLINDER HEADS
8. INSTALL PULLEYS AND TIMING BELT
9. INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR
10. REMOVE ENGINE STAND
11. INSTALL REAR END PLATE
- Install the end plate with the bolt.

Torque: 75 kg-cm (65 in.-Ib. 7.4 N.m)

12. INSTALL FLYWHEEL (M/T)

(a) Apply adhesive to two or three threads of the mount bolt end. Adhesive: Part No.08833-00070, THREE BOND 1324 or equivalent.

(b) Install the flywheel on the crankshaft.
(c) Install and uniformly tighten the eight mount bolts in several passes, in the sequence shown.

Torque: 850 kg-cm (61 ft-lb, 83 N.m)

13. INSTALL DRIVE PLATE (A/T)

Torque: 850 kg-cm (61 ft.lb, 83 N.m)

14. INSTALL CLUTCH DISC AND COVER (M/T)