Removal and Replacement
REMOVAL - CRANKSHAFT1. Remove engine assembly from vehicle.
2. Separate transaxle from engine.
3. Remove drive plate/flexplate.
4. Remove crankshaft rear oil seal.
5. Mount engine on a suitable repair stand.
6. Drain engine oil.
7. Remove crankshaft vibration damper.
8. Remove front timing belt cover, front engine mount bracket, and timing belt.
9. Remove the timing belt tensioner and pulley bracket.
10. Remove camshaft sprocket and rear timing belt cover.
11. Remove crankshaft sprocket.
12. Remove oil filter and adapter (Fig. 54).
13. Remove oil pan.
14. Remove oil pump pick-up tube.
15. Remove oil pump.
16. Remove crankshaft position sensor (Fig. 54).
17. Using a permanent ink or paint marker, identify cylinder number on each connecting rod cap (Fig. 55).
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods. Damage to connecting rod could occur.
18. Remove all connecting rod bolts and caps. Care should be taken not to damage the fracture rod and cap surfaces.
NOTE: Do not reuse connecting rod bolts.
19. Remove all bed plate bolts from the engine block (Fig. 56).
20. Using a mallet tap the bed plate loose from the engine block dowel pins.
CAUTION: Do not pry up on one side of the bed plate. Damage may occur to cylinder block to bed plate alignment and thrust bearing.
21. Bedplate should be removed evenly from the cylinder block dowel pins to prevent damage to the dowel pins and thrust bearing.
CAUTION: Use extreme care when handling crankshaft. Tone wheel damage can occur if crankshaft is mix-handled.
22. Lift out crankshaft from cylinder block. Do not damage the main bearings or journals when removing the crankshaft.
23. Remove the target ring mounting screws and discard.
24. Remove the target ring from the crankshaft.
INSPECTION
The crankshaft journals should be checked for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Fig. 57). Limits of taper or out of round on any crankshaft journals should be held to 0.025 mm (0.001 inch). Journal grinding should not exceed 0.305 mm (0.012 inch) under the standard journal diameter. DO NOT grind thrust faces of No. 3 main bearing. DO NOT nick crank pin or bearing fillets. After grinding, remove rough edges from crankshaft oil holes and clean out all passages.
CAUTION: With the nodular cast iron crankshafts, it is important that the final paper or cloth polish be in the same direction as normal rotation in the engine.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING LOCATION
The crankshaft is supported in five main bearings. All upper bearing shells in the crankcase have oil grooves and holes. All lower bearing shells installed in the (bedplate) main bearing cap are plain. Crankshaft end play is controlled by a flanged bearing on the number three main bearing journal (Fig. 58).
NOTE: The upper and lower main Bearing shells are Not interchangeable. The lower shell locating tabs prevent improper installation.
1. Install the main bearing upper shells with the lubrication groove and oil hole in the engine block. Install O-ring into recess in the block (Fig. 59).
2. Make certain oil holes in block line up with oil hole in bearings and bearing tabs seat in the block tab slots.
NOTE: If the crankshaft is sent out for machine work, it must be balanced as an assembly with the target ring installed.
3. Clean crankshaft and target ring with MOPAR- brake parts cleaner and dry with compressed air to ensure that the crankshaft mating surface and target ring mounting holes are free from oil and lock patch debris.
NOTE: Always use NEW mounting screws whether installing original or new target ring.
4. Install NEW mounting screws finger tight starting with the # 1 location. (Fig. 60) Make sure engagement occurs with the shoulder of the screw and mounting hole before starting all other screws.
5. Torque all mounting screws with T30 torx bit to 13 Nm (110 inch lbs.) following the torque sequence.
CAUTION: Use extreme care when handling crankshaft. Tone wheel damage can occur if crankshaft is mix-handled.
CAUTION: Do Not get oil on the bed plate mating surface. It will affect the ability of the sealer to seal the bed plate to cylinder block.
6. Oil the bearings and journals and install crankshaft in engine the block.
CAUTION: Use only leopard Bed Plate Sealant on the bed plate or damage may occur to the engine.
7. Install lower main bearings into main bearing cap/bed plate. Make certain the bearing tabs are seated into the bed plate slots and apply oil.
8. Apply a 1.5 to 2.0 mm (0.059 to 0.078 inch) bead of Mopar Bed Plate Sealant to cylinder block as shown in (Fig. 61).Install the main bearing/bed plate into the engine block.
9. Before installing the bolts oil threads with clean engine oil, wipe off any excess oil.
10. Install main bearing bed plate to engine block bolts 11, 17 and 20 finger tight. Tighten these bolts down together until the bed plate contacts the cylinder block (Fig. 62).
11. To ensure correct thrust bearing alignment, perform the following steps:
^ Step 1: Rotate crankshaft until number 4 piston is at TDC.
^ Step 2: Move crankshaft rearward to limits of travel.
^ Step 3: Then, move crankshaft forward to limits of travel.
^ Step 4: Wedge an appropriate tool between the rear of the cylinder block (NOT BED PLATE) and the rear crankshaft counterweight. This will hold the crankshaft in it's furthest forward position.
^ Step 5: Install and tighten bolts (1-10) in sequence shown in (Fig. 62) to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
^ Step 6: Remove wedge tool used to hold crankshaft.
12. Tighten bolts (1-10) again to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 62).
13. Install main bearing bed plate to engine block bolts (11-20), with baffle studs in positions 12, 13 and 16 and torque each bolt to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 62).
14. Tighten bolts (1-10) to 81 Nm (60 ft. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 62).
15. Tighten bolts (11-20) again to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 62).
16. After the main bearing bed plate is installed, check the crankshaft turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 5.6 Nm (50 inch lbs.).
17. Check crankshaft end play.
NOTE: The connecting rod cap bolts should not be reused.
18. Before installing NEW bolts, lubricate the threads with clean engine oil.
19. Install each bolt finger tight then alternately torque each bolt to assemble the cap properly.
20. Tighten the connecting rod bolts using the 2 step torque-turn method. Tighten according to the following values:
CAUTION: Do not use a torque wrench for the second step.
1. Tighten the bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
2. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 1/4 TURN.
21. Install oil pump.
22. Install oil pump pick-up tube. Torque fastener to 23 Nm (200 inch lbs.).
23. Install the oil pan.
24. Install oil filter adapter and oil filter (Fig. 54).
25. Install rear timing belt cover and camshaft sprocket.
26. Install front crankshaft oil seal and crankshaft sprocket.
27. Install the timing belt tensioner and pulley bracket.
28. Install the timing belt, front engine mount bracket, and front timing belt cover.
29. Install crankshaft vibration damper.
30. Install crankshaft position sensor (Fig. 54).
31. Install NEW oil filter.
32. Remove engine from repair stand and position on Special Tools 6135 and 6710 Engine Dolly and Cradle. Install safety straps around the engine to cradle and tighten and lock them into position.
33. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal.
34. Install drive plate/flex plate. Apply Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive to bolt threads and tighten to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.).
35. Attach transaxle to engine. Tighten attaching bolts to 101 Nm (75 ft. lbs.).
36. Install the engine assembly.