Removal and Replacement
REMOVAL - CRANKSHAFTNOTE: Crankshaft can not be removed when engine is in vehicle.
1. Remove engine assembly from vehicle.
2. Separate transaxle from engine.
3. Remove drive plate/flex plate.
4. Remove crankshaft rear oil seal.
5. Mount engine on a suitable repair stand.
6. Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
7. Remove crankshaft vibration damper.
8. Remove engine mount support bracket.
9. Remove front timing belt covers.
10. Remove the timing belt.
11. Remove the oil pan.
12. Remove oil pump pick-up tube.
13. Remove the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump.
14. Remove balance shafts and housing assembly.
15. Remove crankshaft position sensor.
NOTE: If piston/connecting rod replacement is necessary, remove cylinder head.
16. Using a permanent ink or paint marker, identify cylinder number on each connecting rod cap (Fig. 38).
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods. Damage to connecting rod could occur.
17. Remove all connecting rod bolts and caps. Care should be taken not to damage the fracture rod and cap surfaces.
NOTE: Do not reuse connecting rod bolts.
18. Remove all bedplate bolts from the engine block (Fig. 39).
19. Using a mallet gently tap the bedplate loose from the engine block dowel pins.
CAUTION: Do not pry up on one side of the bedplate. Damage may occur to cylinder block to bedplate alignment and thrust bearing.
20. Bedplate should be removed evenly from the cylinder block dowel pins to prevent damage to the dowel pins and thrust bearing.
CAUTION: Use extreme care when handling crankshaft. Tone wheel damage can occur if crankshaft is mix-handled.
21. Lift out crankshaft from cylinder block. Do not damage the main bearings or journals when removing the crankshaft.
INSPECTION
The crankshaft journals should be checked for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Fig. 40). Limits of taper or out of round on any crankshaft journals should be held to 0.025 mm (0.001 in.). Journal grinding should not exceed 0.305 mm (0.012 in.) under the standard journal diameter. DO NOT grind thrust faces of No. 3 main bearing. DO NOT nick crank pin or bearing fillets. After grinding, remove rough edges from crankshaft oil holes and clean out all passages.
CAUTION: With the nodular cast iron crankshafts, it is important that the final paper or cloth polish be in the same direction as normal rotation in the engine.
INSTALLATION - CRANKSHAFT
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING LOCATION
The crankshaft is supported in five main bearings. All upper and lower bearing shells in the crankcase have oil grooves and holes (Fig. 41). Crankshaft end play is controlled by a flanged bearing on the number three main bearing journal.
1. Install the main bearing upper shells with the lubrication groove and oil hole in the engine block (Fig. 42).
2. Make certain oil holes in block line up with oil hole in bearings and bearing tabs seat in the block tab slots.
CAUTION: Use extreme care when handling crankshaft. Tone wheel damage can occur if crankshaft is mix-handled. Do not get oil on the bedplate mating surface. It will affect the sealer ability to seal the bedplate to cylinder block.
3. Oil the bearings and journals. Install crankshaft in engine block.
CAUTION: Use only the specified anaerobic sealer on the bedplate or damage may occur to the engine.
4. Apply 1.5 to 2.0 mm (0.059 to 0.078 in.) bead of Mopar Bed Plate Sealant to cylinder block as shown in (Fig. 43).
5. Install lower main bearings into main bearing cap/bedplate. Make certain the bearing tabs are seated into the bedplate slots. Install the main bearing/bedplate into engine block.
6. Before installing the bolts the threads should be oiled with clean engine oil, wipe off any excess oil.
7. Install main bearing bedplate to engine block bolts 11, 17, and 20 finger tight. Tighten these bolts down together until the bedplate contacts the cylinder block (Fig. 44).
8. To ensure correct thrust bearing alignment, perform the following steps:
^ Step 1: Rotate crankshaft until number 4 piston is at TDC.
^ Step 2: Move crankshaft rearward to limits of travel.
^ Step 3: Then, move crankshaft forward to limits of travel.
^ Step 4: Wedge an appropriate tool between the rear of the cylinder block (NOT BED PLATE) and the rear crankshaft counterweight. This will hold the crankshaft in its furthest forward position.
^ Step 5: Install and tighten bolts (1 - 10) in sequence shown in (Fig. 44) to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
^ Step 6: Remove wedge tool used to hold crankshaft.
9. Tighten bolts (1 - 10) again to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 44).
10. Install main bearing bedplate to engine block bolts (11 - 20), and torque each bolt to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 44).
11. Tighten bolts (1 - 10) to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 44).
12. Tighten bolts (11 - 20) again to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 44).
13. After the main bearing bedplate is installed, check the crankshaft turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 5.6 Nm (50 in. lbs.).
14. Check crankshaft end play.
15. Install connecting rod bearings and caps. Do Not Reuse Connecting Rod Bolts. Torque connecting rod bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) plus 1/4 turn.
16. Install balance shafts and housing assembly.
17. Install the oil pump.
18. Install oil pump pick-up tube. Torque fastener to 23 Nm (200 in. lbs.).
19. Install the oil pan.
20. Install crankshaft position sensor.
21. Install cylinder head if it was removed.
22. Install the timing belt rear cover.
23. Install crankshaft sprocket.
24. Install the timing belt.
25. Install the timing belt front covers.
26. Install engine mount support bracket.
27. Install crankshaft vibration damper.
28. Install NEW oil filter.
29. Install crankshaft rear oil seal.
30. Install flex plate. Apply Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive to bolt threads and tighten to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.).
31. Attach transaxle to engine. Tighten attaching bolts to 101 Nm (75 ft. lbs.).
32. Install the engine assembly.