Engine Block Cleaning and Inspection

Engine Block Cleaning and Inspection

Special Tools

EN-28410 - Gasket Remover

For equivalent regional tools, refer to Special Tools Special Tools.

Note: All remanufactured cylinder blocks are steel stamped on both sides of the fuel pressure pump boss. The stamp indicates whether the cylinder is standard or over-bored, and if the deck is standard or has been milled.









Note: If the block has no stampings, the block has a standard bore and deck.

1. Inspect the block for stampings (1) indicating cylinder overbore or a milled deck.




2. Remove the engine block heater.

3. Remove the O-ring from the block heater and discard.




4. Remove the oil gallery plugs.




5. Remove the left engine mount bolts.

6. Remove the left engine mount.




7. Remove the right engine mount bolts.

8. Remove the right engine mount.




9. Remove the right engine coolant drain plug (1) and gasket (2).

10. Discard the gasket (2).




11. Remove the left engine coolant drain plug (1) and gasket (2).

12. Discard the gasket (2).




13. Remove the right engine block coolant freeze plugs.




14. Remove the left engine block coolant freeze plugs.




15. Remove the engine block oil gallery cup plugs (1) from the rear of the engine block.

Caution: Do not use any power type sanding devices, a wire brush or wheel, or chemical cleaning agents on gasket surfaces. Engine damage may result.

16. Clean the sealing material from the gasket mating surfaces and the cup plug bores of the block.

1. Use the EN-28410 - remover or equivalent to carefully clean the gasket sealing surface of large sealing or corrosion matter. When scraping, take care not to scratch or gouge the metal surfaces. Do not push the debris into oil, coolant, and combustion openings or bolt holes.

2. Inspect the gasket sealing surfaces for corrosion, especially in the areas that were in contact with the crimped tabs of the first generation head gasket. If corrosion is present, continue with the rest of the steps in this procedure for proper cleaning.

3. For surfaces that have corrosion or pitting, wrap a piece of flat steel (4"x 2" or larger) with 600 grit wet grade sand paper. Using Moisture Displacing Lubricant, refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers, wet sand the block surface to remove any remaining gasket material or corrosion. Do not use any paper coarser than 600 grit.

4. Take care to keep the sanding block parallel to the block surface and evenly sand the sealing surface. Some areas of corrosion will still show a stain. Do not attempt to wet sand these areas down to a shiny metal surface.

5. Change the sanding paper when it becomes clogged. Carefully and frequently wipe the surface, using a clean cloth each time, to prevent sanding debris from building up and contaminating the oil and coolant cavities.

6. Clean the head gasket surfaces with Brake Parts Cleaner, refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers, to remove any traces of oil or debris.

17. Clean the block in cleaning solvent.

18. Flush the engine block with clean water or steam.

19. Clean the oil passages.





Note: Cylinder wall spotting (1) is from the induction hardening process of the top 1/3 of the cylinder wall. This is normal.

20. Clean the cylinder bores.

21. Inspect the cylinder bores for scratches. Replace the engine if a scratch can be felt with a fingernail.

22. Inspect the cylinder honing cross hatch marks. Replace the engine if there are spots, larger than a quarter, where the cross hatching is worn away.

23. Inspect the block for cracks. Use the Magnaflux Spot check dye method, or the equivalent.

* Inspect the cylinder walls.

* Inspect the coolant jackets.

* Inspect the crankshaft bearing webs.




24. Inspect the crankshaft bearing bores and caps. The crankshaft bearing bore inside diameters should be round and uniform at all of the bearing supports.

25. Inspect the area where the crankshaft bearing inserts contact the crankshaft bearing bore. This area must be free of burrs and scratches.

26. Inspect the engine mount bosses.

27. Inspect the cylinder head gasket mating surfaces for pitting.




28. Inspect the engine block to cylinder head gasket surface area for warping. Use a straight edge and feeler gauge. Replace the block if it is warped more than 0.15 mm (0.006 in) longitudinally or more than 0.08 mm (0.003 in) transversely.

29. Apply sealer to the oil gallery plugs.




30. Apply sealant to the engine block oil gallery cup plugs (1). Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers.

31. Install the engine block oil gallery cup plugs (1) to the rear of the engine block.





Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution Fastener Caution.

32. Install the oil gallery plugs and tighten to 53 Nm (39 lb ft).




33. Apply sealant to the left engine block coolant freeze plugs. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers.

34. Install the left engine block coolant freeze plugs.




35. Apply sealant to the right engine block coolant freeze plugs. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers.

36. Install the right engine block coolant freeze plugs.




37. Install the left engine coolant drain plug (1) and NEW gasket (2).

38. Tighten the plug to 18 Nm (13 lb ft).




39. Install the right engine coolant drain plug (1) and NEW gasket (2).

40. Tighten the plug to 18 Nm (13 lb ft).




41. Install the left engine mount and engine mount bolts. Tighten the engine mount bolts to 58 Nm (43 lb ft).




42. Install the right engine mount and engine mount bolts. Tighten the right engine mount bolts to 58 Nm (43 lb ft).




43. Install a new O-ring to the block heater.

44. Lubricate the O-ring with engine coolant.

45. Install the engine block heater.